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Lohri
When : January 13
Where : Punjab, Haryana, Delhi, parts of Himachal Pradesh
Lohri marks the end of the
harvest in Northern India, and is characterised by the worship of fire. Bonfires are
lit in the evening, whether in individual households or in communities,
and grain- in the form of peanuts, popcorn, puffed rice and similar
goodies- is ceremonially `fed’ to the fire. What follows, of
course, is plenty of feeding of everybody around as well! Lohri celebrations are never complete without music
and dancing, and the feasting is invariably rounded off with a vigorous
bit of shake-a-leg.
Makar Sankranti
When : January 14
Where : Northern and Western India
Makar Sankranti
marks the end of winter, when the sun moves into the northern
hemisphere- thus symbolising regeneration and
the start of a new period. Besides being a significant date in the
zodiac, Makar Sankranti
is also a harvest festival and is celebrated throughout the region as
the end of one agrarian cycle.
Traditionally, Makar Sankranti is observed by a ritual bath- in
Uttaranchal, in fact, there’s a local belief that anybody who
doesn’t bathe on Makar Sankranti will end up being born a donkey in his or
her next incarnation! The sacred `sangam’
at Allahabad- the confluence of the Ganga and
Yamuna- is especially an important place for ritual baths, and is the
venue for a local fair. All across North and West
India, flying kites and feasting on rice and sweets made
from sesame seeds is an integral part of the festivities.
Magh
Mela
When : January 14 - March
Where : Allahabad
According to Hindu belief, the churning of the
primordial ocean centuries ago by the gods resulted in a pot of nectar-
a kumbh- which became the bone of contention
between the gods and the demons. Following the squabble, the kumbh fell, spilling nectar at four places in India: Allahabad,
Haridwar, Nasik
and Ujjain.
The event is commemorated by a mammoth fair, the Maha
Kumbh Mela, which
is held every twelve years at one of these four sacred places. Besides
the Maha Kumbh, an Ardh Kumbh Mela is held every six years, and a Magh Mela is held
annually. The Magh Mela
is the Kumbh on a much smaller scale, but is
nevertheless an important event.
During the Magh Mela, Prayag (Allahabad) becomes even busier than usual, playing
host to the thousands of devotees who come from across the country to
offer prayers and bathe in the waters of the `sangam’,
the confluence of the Ganga
and the Yamuna. Traditionally, the Magh Mela begins on Makar Sankranti, and continues for about a month of
prayers, devotional hymns, ritual baths and more. During the time, the
fair grounds- along the banks of the sangam-
are flooded with teeming crowds of pilgrims, sadhus,
food sellers, shopkeepers and policemen trying desperately to maintain
order.
Bikaner Festival
When : January 24 -25
Where : Bikaner
(Rajasthan)
Hosted annually by the desert town of Bikaner, this festival is dedicated
to the surly, hardy animal without which the desert would be
incomplete- the camel. The festival opens with a parade of beautifully
bedecked camels, and is followed by a number of events which include
camel races and camel beauty pageants (let the least ugly camel win!).
Camel traders and craftsmen from across Rajasthan also converge on Bikaner for the
festival, and there’s plenty of scope for eating,
souvenir-shopping and taking some great photos.
Surajkund
Crafts Mela
When : February 1 - 15
Where : Surajkund (Haryana)
8 km from Delhi lies the monument known as Surajkund, `the Well of the Sun’, supposedly
named after a temple to the Sun God which once stood here- a name which
was later applied to a tank built at the same spot. Surajkund
is fairly quiet all through the year, except in the first fortnight of
February, when it comes to life for a glorious, joyous celebration of India’s
finest folk arts and crafts. Organised by the
Haryana Tourism Development Corporation, the Surajkund
Crafts Mela attracts artisans and craftsmen
from all across India.
On display- and sale, obviously- is a colossal range of souvenirs, from
Madhubani paintings and pashmina
shawls to exquisite meenakari and bidriware. Literally any handicraft produced in India
is represented at Surajkund, and the blend of
colours, patterns and designs is truly heady.
Added to that are continuous performances of dances, music, puppetry,
theatre and other traditional performing arts. All of India
in one easily manageable, memorable dose.
Basant
Panchami
When : February 13
Where : Nationwide
Close on the heels of the harvest festivals of Makar Sankranti, Magh Bihu, Pongal and Lohri follows
the advent of spring- heralded by the festival of Basant
Panchami. Basant Panchami celebrates the end of winter in India,
and is marked by the worship of the Hindu Goddess of Learning, Saraswati. Typically, young children are taught
their first letters on Basant Panchami, and special pujas
are held in schools or other educational establishments. In some
communities, ancestor worship and the feeding of brahmins
is also an integral part of the celebrations.
Yellow, the colour of spring
and of prosperity, is the predominant colour
on Basant Panchami,
and is traditionally the colour worn on this
day. Food cooked on Basant Panchami is often coloured
with saffron or turmeric, which imparts to it a yellow hue.
Muharram
When : February 20
Where : Nationwide
Unlike Eid, Muharram is not
a festive occasion, but a solemn one, which mourns the martyrdom of the
revered Hazrat Imam Hussain,
the grandson of the Prophet Mohammad. The festival is observed on the
tenth day of the month of Muharram, which is the first month in the
Muslim calendar. Hazrat Imam Hussain died in 61 AH (680 AD) in battle against
the forces of Yazid, and his martyrdom is
ceremonially observed by long processions, especially amongst the Shi’a Muslims of India. Taziyas
(bamboo and paper replicas of the saint’s tomb) and green alams (standards of Imam Hussain’s
army, decorated with silver, gold and brass) are ritually carried in
the procession, which is accompanied by men who beat their breasts,
recite marsiyars (mourning verses) and
sometimes resort to self-flagellation to express their sorrow. The
processions continue during Muharram, and culminate on the tenth day of
the month, which is known as Yaum-al-Ashoora.
On Yaum-al-Ashoora, the taziya
procession terminates at a local square or a cemetery, where the taziyas and alams are
ritually buried.
Desert
Festival
When : February 21 - 23
Where : Jaisalmer (Rajasthan)
If you thought Bikaner’s
camel festival was the ultimate in exotic Indian festivals, wait till
you see the fiesta at Jaisalmer. A three-day
long extravaganza of dances, music, handicraft fairs and interesting
competitions- including really unusual ones like a `Mr
Desert’ pageant, a `turban-tying’ contest and a `best
moustache’ contest- the Jaisalmer
Desert Festival is organised by the Rajasthan
Tourism Development Corporation. It’s a fantastic showcase of all
things Rajasthani, and is justifiably popular
with tourists, both Indian and foreign. Besides the food, the music and
the cultural performances, there are camel rides, processions, camel
polo, and even a camel tug-of-war. All of it is held against the
backdrop of the awesome Jaisalmer fort.
Fireworks displays at night light up the area, and the fort is
illuminated too.
Maha Shivratri
When : March
8
Where : Nationwide
Shivratri or Maha Shivratri
is traditionally observed by night-long prayers and the worship of the
god Shiva, who is believed to have performed the tandav-
the cosmic dance of destruction, preservation and creation- on this
night. Devotees of Shiva throng Shiva temples through the day, fasting
and praying to the deity for salvation from the cycle of birth and
rebirth. Shiva lingams in temples are ritually bathed every three hours
with the `panchgavya’- the five sacred
offerings of the cow- butter, sour milk, milk, urine and dung. This is
followed by an offering of the `five foods of immortality’-
honey, yoghurt, sugar, ghee and milk.
Maha Shivratri
is considered a significant festival for women, many of whom believe
that prayers on this day will ensure the wellbeing of their husbands
and children (if the woman is married), or ensure a good husband if the
woman is unmarried!
Elephant
Festival
When : March 25
Where : Jaipur, Rajasthan
Come March, and the Pink City
breaks into an exultant celebration of life, a pre-Holi
bash which centres around the elephant. The
camel may be the most visible symbol of Rajasthan, but when it comes to
Rajput royalty, the elephant wins hands down.
So, while Bikaner
celebrates the Ship of the Desert, Jaipur
makes much of the elephant.
Marked by a range of interesting activities, Jaipur's day-long Elephant Festival is an event not
to be missed. Organised every year by the
Rajasthan Tourism Development Corporation, the Elephant Festival is
held at the Chaugan stadium in Jaipur, and attracts thousands of eager tourists
from across India
and overseas. The festival starts with a procession; while musicians
play folk tunes and dancers whirl in a flurry of colours,
richly caparisoned elephants march along in a parade. This is followed
by a `best decorated elephant' competition, games of elephant polo,
elephant races, a special `elephant decoration' exhibition (see what
goes into making these beauties look the way they do!), and a
tug-of-war between humans and an elephant. No prizes for guessing who
wins.
The festivities end with
performances of folk dances; with a liberal splashing of Holi colours on all and
sundry, and a spectacular display of fireworks. Elal
ephant Festivals
holi
When : March 25
Where : Nationwide
Holi is the day when
everybody sets off to paint the town red- literally. And not just red,
but also blue and green and virulent magenta. Basically a celebration
of the passage of winter and the coming of spring, Holi
has mythological connotations too: it celebrates the death, by fire, of
the demon Holika. But that’s not all; Holi is also associated, in some areas, with the
God of Love, Kama, as well as with the love of Krishna
and Radha. Rather a lot of legends behind one
festival!
But what really matters is that this is a day for
uninhibited fun. People fling coloured
powders or coloured water- along with a lot
of other not-so-nice stuff- on friends, family and even strangers, and
this is one day when everybody on the street looks like they’ve
walked through a rainbow. Riotous singing, dancing and the consumption
of huge amounts of bhang-laced lassi or bhang
pakoras are also very much a part of Holi celebrations.
Mathura, in Uttar Pradesh, is
especially well-known for its Holi
celebrations, which centres around the love
of Krishna and Radha.
An interesting variation of Holi, also in
Uttar Pradesh, is in the towns of Barsana and
Nandgaon, where `Lathmar
Holi’ is celebrated, with women
literally beating the men with wooden sticks. Rather rough, but
it’s all in good humour!
Jamshed-e-Navroz
When : March 22
Where : Nationwide
The Parsi New Year, Jamshed-e-Navroz is celebrated on the first day of
the first month of the Shehenshai calendar
followed by the Zoroastrian faith. Named after the Persian ruler Jamshed, in whose reign the festival began, Jamshed-e-Navroz is symbolic of rejuvenation and
rebirth.
As in all the other new year festivals, at Navroz too there’s much excitement in the
air. Homes are cleaned and decorated with ornate rangolis,
new clothes are worn, and greetings- along with the customary sweets-
are exchanged. This being the start of a new year, prayers are offered
at the Fire Temple, and it’s usual for people to go thrice to the
temple during the day to worship Khorshed and
Meher, the two divine beings who preside over
the sun and the moon respectively.
Good
Friday and Easter
When : March 25 - 27
Where : Nationwide
Holy Week, the seven days which stretch from Palm
Sunday to Easter, is the most important period in the Christian
calendar, for it marks the death and resurrection of Jesus Christ for
the salvation of mankind. Good Friday, which is the day when Christ was
crucified, is a solemn occasion and is observed in churches across the
country. Many Indians fast through the day and end the fast after mass,
with hot cross buns (traditionally decorated with a cross crafted from
dough).
On the third day from Good Friday is Easter, the day
when Christ rose from the dead. Traditionally, Easter masses are held
not just during the late morning or evening but also at sunrise, in a
local cemetery- symbolic of Christ’s resurrection from the tomb.
Easter services are invariably followed by much rejoicing, which
includes feasting on the well-loved `Easter eggs’- initially
a symbol of fertility, and therefore denoting new life and
rejuvenation.
Nauchandi
Mela
When : March 27 - April 27
Where : Meerut,
Uttar Pradesh
Uttar Pradesh is hard to beat for the things it
produces- Lucknow's chikankari; Ferozabad's glassware; Kanpur's
leather; Varanasi's
silk saris… the list is endless. And if you want a one-stop shop
to buy them, come to the Nauchandi Mela in Meerut.
A historic fair, more than a century old, Nauchandi
is a month-long extravaganza of great shopping, good food, and UP at
its noisy best. The Nauchandi Mela begins on the second Sunday after Holi (this year, it starts on April 7). This is
when Meerut becomes much more than just
a small satellite town of Delhi,
and takes on a glitter and vivacity which is highly infectious.
The history behind the Nauchandi
Mela is debatable; some say that it began as
a cattle fair way back in 1672; others suggest a British
revenue-collection fair as the precursor of the mela.
Many Hindu devotees believe that it began as a religious festival to
commemorate the building of a temple in Meerut by Mandodari,
the wife of the demon king, Ravana.
Whatever may be the antecedents of the Nauchandi Mela, the fact
of the matter is that this is one of the biggest, most colourful and interesting fairs anywhere in the
country. Held for all of a month after Holi,
the Nauchandi Mela
is held on a 4 sq km area, crowded and colourful
as can be. The area's crisscrossed by pathways; and all through are put
up hundreds of stalls selling handicrafts and machine-made products
from all across India.
Textiles, perfumes, jewellery, furniture,
ceramics, glassware, leather- the list is endless. Giant wheels, games,
nautankis and cultural performances add to
the ambience. Performances of music and dance have, in fact, become an
important part of the Nauchandi Mela, with maestros such as Pandit
Ravi Shankar being among those who have performed here.
Any way you look at it- whether from the point of view
of a compulsive shopper, a trader wanting to do a bit of good business,
or a culture-vulture looking for a great experience- the Nauchandi Mela is worth a
visit.
Gangaur
When : April 11 - 12
Where : Rajasthan
Rajasthan may be India’s driest and
most arid state, but when it comes to sheer colour
and exuberance, it’s hard to beat. And Rajasthan is best seen in
all its colours at the time of Gangaur, the spring festival dedicated to the
goddess of abundance, Gauri (Parvati). Gangaur is a
largely female-centric festival, in that most of the festivities and pujas are conducted by women. The fortnight leading
up to Gangaur is marked by fasting, daily pujas of Gauri, and on
the day of the festival itself, a bejewelled
and beautifully clothed idol of the goddess is the centrepiece
of an elaborate procession.
Although Gangaur fairs are
held throughout Rajasthan, some towns in particular are known for the
fair: Udaipur (where a boat procession
makes its way across the Pichola
Lake), Jaipur,
Jodhpur, Bikaner, Jaisalmer
and Nathdwara. Among the Girasia
tribals of the Sirohi-Mt
Abu region, Gangaur festivities carry on for
more than a month, when devotees carry decorated idols of the goddess
from village to village, finally returning to the village they started
from. During this period, unmarried men and women of the tribe choose their
mates and elope- a custom which has prevailed through the ages and is
more or less expected during Gangaur.
Ram Navami
When : April 18
Where : Nationwide
All across India,
the day of Ram Navami is celebrated as the
birthday of the god Ram, one of the most familiar and well-loved
deities in the Hindu pantheon. The nine days leading up to Ram Navami are days of fasting and prayer for the
devout, and the day of the festival itself is marked by pujas and satsangs
(public gatherings). Two cities- Ayodhya (in
Uttar Pradesh) and Pondicherry,
both of which are mentioned in the epic Ramayana, are especially
renowned for their Ram Navami celebrations. Ayodhya, where Ram was born, is the setting for
showy rath yatras
or chariot processions in which expensively decorated idols of Ram, Sita and Hanuman are carried through the town. The rath yatras in Ayodhya continue for two days and are accompanied
by much fanfare and rejoicing. Mahavir Jayanti .
Baisakhi
When : April 13
Where : Punjab
Baisakhi is New Year’s
Day in Punjab. And, like New Year
across the world, it’s celebrated with much gusto. The day,
besides being the start of a new year, also marks the maturing of the
winter crop- and the last major festival before farmers roll up their
sleeves and begin harvesting the grain.
For the Sikhs, Baisakhi
holds even greater significance as it commemorates the day, in 1699,
when the tenth Sikh guru, Guru Gobind Singh,
founded the Khalsa Panth.
The festival is celebrated with processions of devotees led by the panj piaras, the elected
religious heads who are second only to the gurus. Devotional music is
played during the procession, and hymns are sung, both along the way
and at gurudwaras. Religious discourses and kirtans are held at gurudwaras,
and karah prasad
(sacramental food) is distributed.
Milad-un-Nabi
When : April 21
Where : Nationwide
Eid Milad-un-Nabi,
or Barawafat, marks the birth anniversary (as
well as the death anniversary) of the Prophet Mohammad. Because of the
fact that the date represents not just the birth, but also the death of
the Prophet, Milad-un-Nabi festivities are
fairly subdued. The twelve days (`barah’
means `twelve’, therefore `barawafat’)
leading up to Milad-un-Nabi are indicative of
the twelve days of sickness before the Prophet was lifted up to heaven.
This period is a time for introspection, prayer and acts of charity.
Public meetings are held at mosques, where religious leaders meditate
and preach on the life of the Prophet, his teachings and the tenets of
the faith. In some places, hymns are sung and marsiyas
(mourning verses) recited in mosques. Furthermore, a ceremony called a
`sandal’ is observed in some mosques, where a stone
representation of the `buraq’- a
horse-like creature on which the Prophet ascended to heaven- is
anointed with sandalwood paste and fragrant powder.
Nag Panchami
When : August
Where : Nationwide
The festival of Nag Panchami
is dedicated to the worship of snakes. It’s celebrated all across
India
at the peak of the monsoon- the time when snakes are most likely to be
around- and takes the form of prayers to the snake god for protection
from snakebite. Specific pujas differ from
one part of the country to another; in some places, live snakes are
worshipped; in others, an image or a dough effigy of a snake is
revered. The worship generally includes bathing a snake (or its idol)
with milk, to the accompaniment of the music played by a snakecharmer. Needless to say this is one day when snakecharmers are in great demand!
Simultaneously, the god Shiva, who is believed to be
very fond of snakes- so much so that he is depicted with a snake around
his neck- is also worshipped. The festivities for Nag Panchami continue throughout the day, with fairs,
music and dance, magic shows and gymnastic feats being among the major
highlights.
Teej
When : August 8 - 9
Where : Northern India
An important festival in Rajasthan, Teej is also a day for rejoicing in parts of Uttar
Pradesh, Haryana and Bihar. Teej celebrates the arrival of the monsoon- a cause
for celebration, indeed- and is appropriately observed by the donning
of green clothing which symbolises the
verdure of rain-fed fields. Teej is
traditionally celebrated by women, who go their parents’ home for
the festival. New clothes, usually gifted by the woman’s parents,
are worn, and women gather together to fast and to offer prayers to the
goddess Parvati, whose devotion to her
husband, Shiva, is considered exemplary. On Teej,
an idol of the goddess, bedecked in red and gold clothing, is taken in
a procession, accompanied by chanting and hymns.
But Teej is not just a
religious festival; it also is a time to celebrate the coming of the
rains- a time for renewal and rejuvenation. Teej
`melas’ or fairs are fixtures at
villages and towns, where thousands come to eat, drink, buy, sell, and
generally enjoy themselves. The celebrations include music and folk
dances, as well as the hanging of swings from trees, where groups of
women and girls gather to swing.
Raksha
Bandhan
When : August 19
Where : Nationwide
An old legend in Hindu mythology tells of how, during
a fierce battle between the gods and the demons, a sacred thread tied
by his wife on the wrist of the god Indra
helped bolster his courage and defeat the enemy. The modern
interpretation of that legend has substituted the sister for the wife,
and the demons have changed somewhat from being flesh-and-blood
monsters to the more mundane problems of everyday life; but the spirit
continues in the form of Raksha Bandhan.
Raksha Bandhan
affirms the relationship between a sister and brother with the symbolic
tying of a thread around the wrist of the brother, whereby he promises
to protect her against all harm, while she prays for his wellbeing. The
thread, known as the rakhi, today appears in
many forms, both simple and highly ornate, decorated with gold or
silver foil, beads, silk thread, sequins and more. In most modern
households Raksha Bandhan
is a light-hearted occasion, calling for plenty of playful banter.
Traditionally, brothers were expected to gift something to their
sisters on this day, and that translates today into clothing, jewellery, or money.
Urs of Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti
When : August
Where : Ajmer
(Rajasthan)
The largest Muslim fair in India,
the annual Urs of the Sufi saint Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti is held at the dargah
of the saint in Ajmer,
Rajasthan. The Urs (the death anniversary of
the saint) is an occasion for a massive pilgrimage, with thousands of
devotees flocking to the dargah. The Urs celebrations continue for six days, commencing
with the hoisting of a white flag on the tomb by the Sajdanashin (successor-representative) of the Chishtia order. Over the days which follow, the
tomb is ritually anointed with rosewater and sandalwood paste; qawwalis are sung and poetry recited in praise of
the Almighty, prayers are said, and devotees offer nazranas
or votive offerings. Outside the dargah
precincts, two massive cauldrons cook sweet rice garnished with dry
fruits and condiments to be served as ‘tabarukh’
or sanctified food.
At the time of the Urs, a
busy bazaar springs up at the foot of the dargah.
Flowers, embroidered prayer rugs, prayer caps and decorative chadars are among the many things to be found in
the bazaar, apart from the usual souvenirs which make their way to
fairs such as this.
Phoolwalon
Ki Sair (Sair-e-Gulfaroshan)
When : August - September
Where : New Delhi
Delhi
is not all pollution and noisy traffic, as some would have you believe;
it’s also the home of a very interesting annual festival, with a
history more than a hundred years old. Way back in the 19th century,
the British appointed Bahadurshah Zafar the Mughal emperor.
Bahadurshah’s half-brother, Mirza Jahangir, was understandably annoyed at being
thus ignored; and he, to vent his frustration, took a pot shot at the
British Resident. The Resident, though uninjured, instantly exiled his
would-be murderer to Allahabad.
Mirza Jahangir’s mother, who missed her
son terribly, made a vow that if her son returned to Delhi, she would walk from the tomb
of Nizamuddin Auliya
to that of Qutubuddin Bakhtiyar
Kaki. Her prayers must have been powerful, for Mirza
Jahangir was pardoned; and his mother’s pilgrimage, which she
duly went on, has continued till today in the form of the Sair-e-Gulfaroshan, or the Phoolwalon
ki Sair.
A three-day long religious (yet secular, for everybody
participates in it) festival of flowers, the Sair-e-Gulfaroshan
begins with the procession from Nizamuddin’s
dargah to Kaki’s dargah.
The procession, which is led by musicians, fire-dancers and
flower-sellers, makes its way to Kaki’s tomb, where flower `chaadars’ and `pankhas’
are ceremonially laid on the dargah. This is
followed by a visit to the nearby Devi Jog Maya temple, an ancient
shrine where the ceremony is repeated. The festivities are rounded off
with a cultural programme of kathak performances, qawwalis
and devotional music.
Ganesh
Chaturthi
When : September 7
Where : Nationwide
Although celebrated all across India, Ganesh Chaturthi (or Vinayak Chaturthi, as it’s also known) is a really
important festival especially in the states of Maharashtra,
Karnataka, Tamilnadu and Andhra Pradesh.
Preparations for Ganesh Chaturthi-
which marks the birth of the Lord Ganesh-
begin up to ten days in advance, and, in places, even months in
advance. In virtually every neighbourhood, a
gaily decorated and painstakingly crafted Ganesh
idol is made, to be illuminated and worshipped for all of the ten days
leading up to Ganesh Chaturthi.
On the day of the festival itself, sweets- especially laddoos, which are a favourite
of the god’s- are distributed (and consumed) and Ganesh temples are crowded with devotees who
participate in the worship of the deity. Finally, when all the
festivities are over, the idols which have been worshipped over the
past ten days are taken out in a grand procession. Accompanied by
fireworks, beating drums and the sound of thousands of voices singing devotional
songs, the idols are ritually immersed in a nearby sea, lake or river.
The immersion, which is known as the `visarjan’,
marks an end to the festivities, and is completed with prayers to the
god to return again the following year.
Janmashtami
When : September 27
Where : Nationwide
Janmashtami, or, as
it’s sometimes known, Krishna Janmashtami,
celebrates the birth of perhaps one of Hindusim’s
most popular deities- the well-loved Krishna. According to Hindu
belief, Krishna was born at midnight on the eighth day of
the dark fortnight in the month of Bhadrapad.
The day before Janmashtami is one of prayer
and fasting, which continues till midnight
and beyond, when an idol of the god is placed in a cradle and rocked.
On Janmashtami itself, Krishna
temples are decorated and the idol of the god is ceremonially bathed in
a mixture of milk, honey, yoghurt, dry fruit and tulsi
leaves- all of which is then distributed as prasad.
Hymns, the chanting of devotional mantras, and processional tableaux
are accompanied by the enactment of incidents from the life of the god.
These are performed by small Brahmin boys, who, for the day, are
regarded virtually as incarnations of Krishna
himself. In some areas, a staging of the Raslila-
which celebrates Krishna’s love
for the cowgirls of Vrindavan- is an integral
part of Janmashtami celebrations.
One of the most lively
customs connected with Janmashtami is the
breaking of the `dahi-handi’, a pot of
milk, yoghurt, butter, honey and dry fruits which is suspended high
above a street. Teams of young men and boys compete with each other to
build human pyramids high enough to reach the dahi-handi
and break it. The act is symbolic of Krishna’s
love for milk and butter, and his plundering of the local
cowgirls’ handis.
Gandhi Jayanti
When : October 2
Where : Nationwide
October 2, 1869, was the date when Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi- undoubtedly modern India’s most well-known statesman-
was born in Porbandar, Gujarat.
Nearly a century and a half after his birth, Mahatma’s Gandhi
birthday is still an important national event- in fact, one of the
three national holidays in the Indian calendar. It is not a day for
exuberant celebrations, but rather one for repose and religious
discourse. National leaders and ministers pay homage to The Father of
the Nation at his memorial (at Raj Ghat, in Delhi).
This is followed by public assemblies where verses are read from
religious scriptures and hymns are sung.
Dussehra
When : October 12
Where : Nationwide
Dussehra or Vijayadashami ranks as one of the most important
festivals in the Hindu calendar- a celebration of the triumph of good
over evil. Rooted in the legend of Ram’s defeat of the demon king
Ravana, Dussehra
re-enacts the epic battle, in more forms than one. Traditionally, a `ramlila’ is staged in community halls,
schools and temples, where the well-loved story of the Ramayana is
performed all over again. Simultaneously, poems, songs and stories
recount the virtues of the deity. A few days prior to Vijayadashami, bamboo and paper effigies of Ravana, his brother Kumbhakarna
and his son Meghnad are erected. The
effigies are crammed with firecrackers and, on the day of the festival,
ceremonially set alight in the evening, to blaze and burn in a shower
of flames and exploding crackers. Pujas,
music and ritual processions are just some of the other components of Dussehra.
Dussehra festivities in
certain parts of India
are especially notable. In Kullu (Himachal
Pradesh), for instance, the celebrations carry on for ten days, during
which beautifully decorated idols of deities are brought to Kullu town in processions from across the valley;
the festival itself is marked by pujas and Natti dances.
In Mysore
(Karnataka), Dussehra is marked by a grand
procession of decorated elephants, dancers and priests; the procession
ends at the Chamundi Temple,
where a special puja is held. Elsewhere in
Karnataka- and in Andhra Pradesh too- a pyramidical
arrangement of dolls, known as a bommai kolu, is created as the main decorative element in
homes.
Diwali
When : November 1
Where : Nationwide
One of India’s most popular festivals, Diwali or Deepawali is
the festival of lights- the day when each house, each shop is decorated
with hundreds of tiny, twinkling clay diyas.
It’s the day when crackers and fireworks, sweets and goodwill
rule the roost- the day which heralds a new year, greater prosperity
and more joy.
Diwali celebrations continue
over a few days, starting with Dhanteras,
which is dedicated to Laxmi, the goddess of
wealth. For Dhanteras, homes and shops are
decorated with colourful rangolis,
and diyas are kept burning through the night.
The day after Dhanteras is Chhoti Diwali, and the
day after that is the festival itself- Diwali.
Diwali is celebrated by worshipping the
goddess Laxmi, but that isn’t all- what
really contributes to all the fun on Diwali
is the lighting of lamps; the fireworks; the crackers; the sweets; and
the air of camaraderie which seems to pervade the air itself. Other
`must-dos’ during the Diwali season
include purchasing gold, silver or utensils on Dhanteras;
and gambling during the days prior to Diwali.
The tradition of gambling apparently derives from the story that
the goddess Parvati played dice with her
husband, Shiva, on Diwali, and decreed that
anyone who gambled during the period would be favoured
with wealth and prosperity.
Eid
ul Fitr
When : November 3 - 5
Where : Nationwide
One of Islam’s most important festivals, Eid ul Fitr is the culmination of the month-long period of
fasting and austerity known as Ramzan. It is
believed that the Holy Quran was revealed during the month of Ramzan, and in commemoration of that sacred
revelation, Eid is celebrated on the day
following the sighting of the new moon. On the day of Eid, namaz at mosques is
followed by the giving of fitr (alms). Family
gatherings, fireworks and much feasting round off the festivities. The
highlight of banquet tables is the sweet milk-and-vermicelli pudding
known as `seviyan’- because of which
many people refer to Eid ul
Fitr as `meethi’
or `sweet’ Eid. In predominantly Muslim
neighbourhoods, special Eid
fairs appear, where trinkets, clothing and a whole lot of other
bric-a-brac is available.
Pushkar
Mela
When : November 12 - 15
Where : Pushkar (Rajasthan)
For Hindus, the town of Pushkar, in Rajasthan, is considered
among the holiest of towns in India- a town to which any
devotee worth his or her salt must make a pilgrimage. Consequently, Pushkar, at any given time, is full of pilgrims
coming to seek darshan, to offer prayers at
the local temples, and to stock up on virtue enough to guarantee
salvation. But Pushkar is most crowded not
during the pilgrim season, but during the annual cattle fair which is
the highlight of Pushkar’s winter.
Every November, thousands of people- cattle traders, shopkeepers,
merchants, dancers, musicians and artisans among them- congregate at Pushkar for a four-day long event which holds the
distinction of being India’s
largest cattle fair. The fair is a memorable- and definitely
overwhelming- cocktail of sights, smells and sounds which bring
together everything Rajasthani. For the space
of four days, Pushkar’s narrow lanes
are the scene for hectic trade and barter, for merrymaking and
rejoicing- and despite the fact that the increasing commercialisation
of the Mela has made it a whole lot more
touristy than before, it continues to be a delightful experience.
Gurunanak
Jayanti
When : November 15
Where : Nationwide
Among the Sikhs, Gurunanak Jayanti- the birth anniversary of Guru Nanak, the
founder of the faith- is an occasion for great rejoicing. Guru Nanak
was born in 1469 AD at Tolevandi (near Lahore), and his
birth anniversary is celebrated with much pomp and religious fervour across the Sikh community. The festivities
for the day begin with early morning processions known as the `prabhat pheri’; the
procession starts at a local gurudwara and
makes its way around the neighbourhood,
chanting verses and singing hymns. Prabhat pheris are held on the days prior to Gurunanak Jayanti; and
for the three days too, there is a continuous reading of the Guru Granth Sahib, from beginning to end, without a
break.
The day of the festival is marked by a special
procession in which pride of place is reserved for the Guru Granth Sahib, carried on a beautifully decorated
float and accompanied by musicians and five armed guards (who represent
the panj piaras).
Prayers and kirtans at gurudwaras
are followed by community meals (langar),
where all- irrespective of religious conviction- are welcome.
Christmas Day
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